article from January 19, 2011
by Julie R Butler
Buenos Aires is big and noisy and not the place for people
who are not fond of big, noisy cities (that would be us). But then there are
those who love all of the culture, the history, the accessibility, the vibrancy
of the world’s biggest cities, and Buenis Aires has it all and more.
In describing the various barrios, or neighborhoods, suffice it to say that restaurants
abound everywhere in this city, each barrio featuring its own characteristic
selection. Argentines eat two main meals every day, the midday meal being the
main event, but the late dinner may also be sizeable, as well. These are
important family and social events that are expected to be long, drawn out,
lingering affairs, with the service matching the relaxed pace and waiters
seeming to be specially trained in the art of eye-contact avoidance – strangely,
especially when it comes time to pay up!
Here are the most famous barrios:
Microcentro: The
heart and soul of a nation, this is home to the government buildings, the
grandest architecture, the historic cafés, restaurants, and clubs that are over
a hundred years old, and the symbolic Obelisco that is framed by one of the
world’s widest boulevards.
Tribunales: This
theater district is home to the magnificent Palacio de Justicia and the equally
magnificent opera house, Teatro Colón, among other prominent cultural
treasures.
San Thelmo:
Brimming with antiques and wrought iron, cobblestones and colonial
architecture, its charm has established it as a center for expats and travelers
of all persuasions.
La Boca: This is
a working-class neighborhood that has its dangers, yet its bright colors and
big character draw anyone who wants to experience this authentic part of
Argentine culture.
Palermo: A
trendy, upscale residential area that offers everything great about big-city
living – parks, museums, restaurants, bars, and boutiques
Recoleta: Even
more upscale, Recoleta is most famous for its incredible cemetery for the rich
and famous.
Belgrano: Known
as a more peaceful, park-filled, pleasant residential barrio.
Almargo: This
middle-class neighborhood, off the tourist track, is a good place to go for a
more typical Argentine atmosphere.
Boedo: The historic
porteño lifestyle is alive and well in this major tango and cultural center.
Congreso: This
area surrounding the Palacio del Congreso is a densely populated section
characterized by busy streets running between a sea of high-rises, all commerce,
all the time.
Puerto Madero:
The old port has been re-vamped, the redbrick warehouses turned into art
studios, shops, and restaurants that charge for the view across to the new modern
architecture that is springing up like daisies. A stroll along the waterfront
or through the nearby wildlife preserve offers pleasant respite from the hectic
pace of the streets of BsAs.
Retiro: This
neighborhood, where both the classic main train station and the main bus
station are located, is synonymous with ritz, unless you accidentally wander
into the shantytown behind the train station.
For more on Buenos Aires, see (all sites current as of
December 2013):
Official
Tourism Website of Buenos Aires (in Spanish)
Julie R Butler is a writer, journalist, editor, and
author of several books, including Nine Months in Uruguay and No
Stranger To Strange Lands (click here for
more info). She is a contributor to Speakout at Truthout.org, and her
current blog is Connectively
Speaking.
email: julierbutler [at] yahoo [dot] com, Twitter: @JulieRButler
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