article from January 17, 2011
By Jamie Douglas
If you are a potential expat, you have finally settled on a
destination, and it is Argentina, I highly recommend that you do some serious
research, AND visit the country first, and I mean the country.
It is the eight-largest country on Earth, with Buenos Aires
being the eight-largest metropolitan area. According to the latest census
figures (99% responding), there are 40 million Argentineans, of which 39% live in the Greater Buenos Aires Area (The
Province of Buenos Aires plus the Capital
Federal). That’s about 15.6 million people, making it the second-largest
metropolitan area in South America behind São Paulo, Brazil. All in all, it is
estimated that there are 20 million inhabitants in the Greater Buenos Aires
Area, many living way below the poverty level.
BsAs is indeed an exciting and lively city, but presently,
the center of the city’s infrastructure is crumbling, literally under your
feet. The sidewalks are a hazard area for pedestrians, due to the many deep
holes and cracks and the feces of tens of thousands of loose dogs, and the
magnificent buildings in the center city itself have lost much of their beauty
and former glory due to lack of money for maintenance and general neglect.
It is the cultural capital of South America, and a very
vibrant city, boasting a large number of tango clubs, theaters and cultural
events. The many parks in the city, on a nice summer day, are occupied by many porteños, as the residents of the
city are called, playing or just resting in the sun or under the many trees. I
could go on for pages, listing the pros and cons of this huge metropolis, but
we are talking Argentina here.
Jamie Douglas |
If you are a city person, then it is imperative that you also
check out Córdoba, Mendoza, Rosario and the twin cities of Santa Fé and Paraná,
just to mention a few that are not total tourist Meccas like Mar del Plata, and
in Patagonia, San Carlos de Bariloche.
With its size and diversification, Argentina is sure to
offer something for just about anyone who comes with their eyes open, rose-colored
glasses securely tucked away. There is the extreme north, which reaches into
the altiplano, as well as subtropical
climates and the Yungas jungle; there is the rugged Chaco, there is the Wine Country,
the Pampas, the Steppe, the Lake District, and there is the extreme south, Tierra
del Fuego being the southernmost inhabited area in the world, which has penguins
rather than palm trees. And the Andes run the entire length of the country in the
west.
Jamie Douglas |
Patagonia, which is the name for the southern part of the
continent, has much to offer for those seeking peace and seclusion. Vast empty
spaces are punctuated by the majestic southern glaciers and the tranquil, microclimate
controlled valley of the Comarca Andina,
where it rarely snows, and deep winter temperatures never really go below 25
degrees Fahrenheit. This area is centered more or less around El Bolsón, a
hiker and outdoors person’s delight at least nine months out of the year and
totally tolerable during the other three months. Farther to the north is Nahuel
Huapi National Park, with its spectacular glacial lakes, and Bariloche, Villa
Angostura and San Martín de Los Andes, which boast some world-class skiing. In
this region, you are never far from the Chilean border, where you can
experience the other side of the Andes. There is so much to do and so much to
see in Patagonia that you should really take at least a month to absorb it all.
Jamie Douglas |
Then of course there are many areas along the Atlantic coast
that have a lot to offer to those who prefer to be near the ocean – a very cool
ocean to be sure. Up the coast, the Río de la Plata estuary reaches inland, and
following the Paraná, you may end up at Iguazú Falls, in the triangle where Paraguay
and Brazil meet Argentina in a misty, subtropical wonderland where the bird
watching, wildlife viewing and lush flora around the immense falls comprise a
once-in-a-lifetime experience.
My recommendation: Come to Argentina, bring an open mind and
have no fixed plans except, if you can, to stay the full 90 days that your
entry visa grants you (This can easily be extended for another 90 days for
about US$75 at any immigration office in the larger cities). Take advantage of
the extensive bus system, which offers sleeper seats and meals when traveling
long distances. (Always bring your own water and some snacks).
When exploring an area, it is best to rent a car for a few days,
so that you can check out the sights, sounds and smells of this magnificent
country at your leisure. If you end up in a place where you want to spend a
week or more, I recommend renting a cabaña,
which normally comes fully furnished with kitchen and all the necessary
utensils and is much more economical than staying at a hotel. Inquire at the
local tourist information bureau for the availability of a home away from home.
All that said, be a smart traveler, not a tourist. Guard
your valuables and don’t flash large amounts of cash or jewelry. Argentina is
just like anywhere else where there are the “haves” and the “have not’s,” and
you, looking well dressed with all the cameras, iPods, iPhones, etc., make a
tempting target for the latter.
So by all means, come on down and experience this expansive
country, which is also a way of life, drink some mate with some locals and see
for yourself.
Welcome to Argentina!
Jamie Douglas
Patagonia
I encourage you to write me at cruzansailor
[at] gmail [dot] com with any questions or suggestions you may
have. Disclaimer: I am not in any travel-related business. My advice is
based on my own experiences and is free of charge (Donations welcome). It is
always my pleasure to act as a beneficial counselor to those who are seekers of
the next adventure.
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