article from November 25, 2010
Not by Richard Brautigan
Not by Richard Brautigan
Lago Epuyén (photo by Jamie Douglas) |
We went to the shore last fall to take pictures and pick mushrooms. As soon as we arrived, the caretaker of the rustic campground came out to greet us ( but not to hustle us for anything), inviting us out to the pier. He had a bucket of “slop” – mostly bread and water – with him. First, he stood on the dock and clapped his hands a few times. Within a few minutes, he pointed out the fish in the crystal clear waters, and my jaw dropped. I had never seen trout of this size.
Our new friend started throwing handfuls of the slop into the water, and the feeding frenzy that ensued reminded me very much of Amazonia, where the vaqueros sacrificed the weakest in the herd to the voracious Piranhas a little downriver from where they intended to ford with their cattle and horses. As soon as the cow was herded into the water, hundreds of piranhas attacked, and within 10-15 minutes there was literally just a skeleton on a sandbank picked so clean, you would have thought that it had been there for months. Strangely enough, attacks on humans are rare, as are attacks by trout on humans in Patagonia.
Our new friend started throwing handfuls of the slop into the water, and the feeding frenzy that ensued reminded me very much of Amazonia, where the vaqueros sacrificed the weakest in the herd to the voracious Piranhas a little downriver from where they intended to ford with their cattle and horses. As soon as the cow was herded into the water, hundreds of piranhas attacked, and within 10-15 minutes there was literally just a skeleton on a sandbank picked so clean, you would have thought that it had been there for months. Strangely enough, attacks on humans are rare, as are attacks by trout on humans in Patagonia.
From northern Patagonia all the way to Tierra del Fuego, on both the Argentine and Chilean side of the border, there are hundreds of lakes and streams where one can enjoy a peaceful and undisturbed day or week practicing the fine art of fly-fishing. The rivers run year round, and unless there has just been a major period of bad weather, the streams are crystal clear. For those who are adventurous, camping is a great option, as long as good care is taken with the fire built for cooking your delicious dinner. The best time is from late November until April. For those wanting a little more comfort, there are cabins available in many places, and no area is ever over-occupied. Accommodations range from the frugal to the luxurious, with or without meals, and most places will be happy to prepare your catch.
Fishing licenses are obligatory and can be obtained in many places at a very reasonable price.
Fishing licenses are obligatory and can be obtained in many places at a very reasonable price.
One thing to remember is that if you go to Chile, you have to buy the reciprocal visa to that which the US charges Chileans, about $135 at this writing (November 2010). Once you pay for that, it is good for as long as your passport is valid. Argentina just recently adopted the same requirements for US citizens arriving at the Ezeiza International Airport. These rules apply to US citizens and Canadians. Citizens of the EU and Switzerland are exempt.
Happy fishing!
Happy fishing!
Find information on the ArgentinaTouristica.com website's "Sporting Fishing" page. This is from the English page on El Bolsón: “It is embedded in a picturesque and colourful mountain valley that ends up in the Puelo lake.”
Jack Trout, Fly Fishing International operates out of Chile.
Jamie Douglas
At large in South America
I encourage you to write me at cruzansailor [at] gmail [dot] com with any questions or suggestions you may have. Disclaimer: I am not in any travel-related business. My advice is based on my own experiences and is free of charge (Donations welcome). It is always my pleasure to act as a beneficial counselor to those who are seekers of the next adventure.
At large in South America
I encourage you to write me at cruzansailor [at] gmail [dot] com with any questions or suggestions you may have. Disclaimer: I am not in any travel-related business. My advice is based on my own experiences and is free of charge (Donations welcome). It is always my pleasure to act as a beneficial counselor to those who are seekers of the next adventure.
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