Showing posts with label Latin America. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Latin America. Show all posts

Tuesday, January 21, 2014

Expat Financial Advice: In the U$ Dollar We Trust (reposted from original location)

article from December 30, 2013
By Jamie Douglas

As 2013 draws to a close, many of us are wondering what may lie ahead for us in the coming year.

Where to place your trust

A little over three years ago, I wrote two articles – Basic Financial Advice for New Expats and a follow-up – urging my readers to not believe in all the false prophets of doom and gloom in regard to the US dollar. This is a follow-up on both of those articles, which focus on Latin America.

As we have all witnessed the boom and bust of the “nouveau riche” BRIC nations over that period, one nation that, until recently, seemed isolated from the world’s economic troubles has been Australia. But the Aussie dollar has lost over 15% in value over the past year, as China has been affected by the global slump and its demand for the mineral wealth in Australia has waned.

In its place, the Chinese have taken their hoard of 1.4 trillion US dollars to buy into the mines and mineral rights of other mineral-rich nations around the world, even landing in tiny Uruguay to exploit that nation’s meager iron ore deposits.

While global currencies have an uncertain future, with more problems forecast for the Euro Zone for 2014, the almighty US dollar has held its course, with the help of steady support from Ben Bernanke, and has gained substantially against virtually all Latin American nations’ currencies, with the exception of those currencies that are either fixed to the dollar or those nations that are using the dollar as their own currency.

A December 27, 2013, Bloomberg News analysis of Latin American currencies should be sufficient to convince all travelers and expats in the region to keep their money in US dollars or Swiss francs to protect their nest eggs. And as Jeffrey Grossman, president of BRG Brokerage, explains, “compared to all the other currencies, as we always say, even when it’s at its weakest, [the US dollar is] still the best horse at the glue factory. In 2013, the Dow Jones Index gained 25% and the Standard and Poor´s Index gained 28%.

Where not to place your trust

Never automatically trust fellow expatriates who want to help you invest your money in crash-proof funds or metals. In many cases, their job is to fleece you with fancy schemes to buy fractional ownership in vineyards in Argentina, teak farms in Central America or, worst of all, to get suckered into one of those pricey seminars to sell you real estate, urging you to invest in Colombia as if there was not a civil war raging there for the last 50+ years. The vultures at Escape Artist (Disclaimer: I was indirectly involved as a writer with these people several years ago, but distanced myself after I realized whom I was dealing with) and similar publications will gladly fleece you of your life savings ...but wait – I have a bridge for sale somewhere!

Enjoy the day, commit an act of selfless kindness and have a great new year!

Jamie Douglas
Still at large in South America

I encourage you to write me at cruzansailor [at] gmail [dot] com with any questions or suggestions you may have. Disclaimer: I am not in any travel-related business. My advice is based on my own experiences and is free of charge (Donations welcome). It is always my pleasure to act as a beneficial counselor to those who are seekers of the next adventure.

Summary of the Sixth Summit of the Americas

article from April 17, 2012
By Jamie Douglas

Cartagena, Colombia, the "Pearl of the Caribbean,"  had, in spite of minor rumblings about the Falkland Islands and the highly visible absence of Cuba, Ecuador, Venezuela and Nicaragua, the promise to bring together all the he heads of state of the hemisphere.

Lacking were Hugo Chávez who, it must be assumed, is spending his last days as a guest of another no-show, this one a no-show by denial, Raúl Castro, the younger (almost 81-year-old) brother of Comandante Fidel, as well the voluntarily missing Rafael Correa, the president of Ecuador, and the newly re-reelected president of Nicaragua, Daniel Ortega.

With Correa, it is a double-edged sword. On one hand, he was grandstanding for the inclusion of Cuba, while on the other, he was fearful of leaving the country and losing power.

While the motto of the summit held great promise: “Connecting the Americas: Partners for Prosperity,” the outcome was rather embarrassing to the USA, what with the prostitute scandal (What do you mean I have to pay you? You should pay me, I am American!), which overshadowed everything else. It was this very attitude that was to be avoided. US President Barack Obama did his best to make good on some of his early promises to get closer with his southern neighbors, listening to hours of diatribes and well-meaning speeches from the leaders of the Americas.

The exclusion of Cuba – sorry, that should be the Marxist Communist Republic of Cuber, once the promising 49th state to the US of A – took up such a huge amount of time that it reminded me of the annual square dance that used to take place at the United Nations, where the whole world wanted a nation of a billion Chinese souls to become members of the world body while the US vetoed it, insisting that the shoe and bicycle factory named Taiwan represented the whole of China. And so it goes today with US-Cuba relations.

The summit unfortunately lasted for only two days, and most of that time was taken up with bickering about Cuba. Is the United States so nearsighted that it does not see what a potential giant lies dormant at their doorstep? And I don’t mean a doormat! I can see why Canada supports the embargo. Their citizens have had the island to share only with European and South American citizens. It is so nice not to have that whale of a human on the beach hollering at the waitress, ¡Otro!

As it stands now, the delegates could have stayed home and bought some prostitutes wholesale for their details. That would have saved a whole lot of money and frustration for the many non-Canadian or US delegates.

For such a huge hemispherical organization to come together only every three years is a bit embarrassing, as well. I would suspect that yearly meetings might be more in order. However, the ALBA nations – Venezuela, Ecuador, Bolivia, Nicaragua and many of the smaller Caribbean nations, have already stated firmly that they would not attend another summit without Cuba’s presence. And of course, the nearsightedness about Cuba is also causing the United States to miss out on the fact that China is taking over as the major trading partner throughout Latin America. Ouch.

So the other big drama, besides the sex scandal, was Argentina’s President Cristina Fernández de Kirchner, who singlehandedly is trying to turn back the clock of progress in her country, storming out of the summit before it was over, calling it a waste of her time. She went to Cartagena all full of expectations that she would be able to bring her favorite non-issue to the table, the Falkland Islands. But no such thing happened. All the nations, big and small, failed to even mention her menstrual problem, so she came home, called for an emergency meeting with the press and her cabinet, and proudly announced that the federal government would steal 51% of the Spanish oil exploration firm YPF-Repsol, giving the remaining 49% to the provinces. Way to go Cristina! It shouldn’t come as a surprise, though, as state larceny has been institutionalized in Argentina for over 200 years, now. The faces change, but the tactic and practices remain the same.

Jamie Douglas
San Rafael, Mendoza
Where my U.S. Dollar gets stronger every day

I encourage you to write me at cruzansailor [at] gmail [dot] com with any questions or suggestions you may have. Disclaimer: I am not in any travel-related business. My advice is based on my own experiences and is free of charge (Donations welcome). It is always my pleasure to act as a beneficial counselor to those who are seekers of the next adventure.

Continuing the War on Drugs (Because the USA Started It – Sort of like Vietnam)

article from April 10, 2012
By Jamie Douglas

Yes ladies and gentlemen, this is a real war. Well over 50,000 human beings have lost their lives in this war, many of them good and a whole lot of them bad guys, just in Mexico alone.

While Guatemala’s new President Otto Pérez Molina, on the surface, is speaking against the war on drugs and is saying he is for legalization, as more and more Latin American leaders are, he nevertheless has to defend his country from being taken over by the Zetas.

The northern region of Guatemala bordering Mexico has long been plagued by violent drug gangs taking over entire regions in the Petén, where they enslave the locals to build clandestine airstrips for the planes from Colombia and Costa Rica that arrive in broad daylight. The Petén department is the northernmost as well as the largest, encompassing 13,843 square miles of mostly sparsely inhabited jungle and ranchland.

A month after his swearing in, the new president stated that he and other Latin American leaders would consider decriminalizing illicit drugs to fight trafficking in the region. That is very noble of him. But does he really want Guatemala to become another Costa Rica or Panama, which are semi-legal trans-shipment points for Peruvian Marching Powder? Guatemala already has one of the highest murder rates in the world, at 16 murders per day in country with 38 out of 100,000 citizens murdered every year.

Way back in the 1990s when my wife and I traveled through Guatemala twice a year, cocaine was easily obtainable and dirt cheap. The market was controlled by Italian hoods, many of them, at this point, long deceased at the hands of the Mexicans and Colombians who realized that the country could serve their needs as a trans-shipment point. From an airstrip in the Petén jungle, the air distance to the Gulf Coast shores of the United States is less than 1,000 miles. While the preferred point of departure is the Yucatan Peninsula, as it lies much closer to the US mainland, it is also occupied by the Mexican military, as well as having a large number of less corruptible DEA agents operating sophisticated radars and satellites.

It must also be understood that legalizing illicit drugs will not be a cure-all for the affected nations. The trafficking will stay and probably increase, with more and more of the product being left behind, fueling more and more misery created by addiction mixed with already deep social problems.

Another concern: When legalized, who will handle the trade – Pfizer, Hoffman or any of the hundreds of international parasitic drug companies that are already in the pharmaceutical business? And when it comes to the USA, there is no way that the so-mentioned honorable drug companies are willing to let this, the most lucrative trade ever, be handled by anyone other than themselves. Why, this could potentially be bigger than online porn. Imagine that!

The United States has already denounced the potential for legalization strongly.

Recently officials of the Latin American nations and US officials met in Costa Rica to discuss the problem of spreading drug gang violence. The problem is actually twofold: There are the consumer nations, which encompass virtually the entire Western World, and the producer nations, which, through corruption, have allowed the industry to get control of entire countries. (Head South from Mexico to Bolivia and you will see every single nation entangled in the trade.)

To my thinking, legalization will not work. Imagine the logistical nightmare of transporting and warehousing a substance that sells typically for US$30,000 to $50,000 per kilo, and with adulteration and an insatiable consumer market, it will easily bring in a minimum of $100,000. To put this in perspective, gold, on Monday, April 9, traded at $53,600 per kilo, and it is not a consumable item, nor does it does grow fresh crops on a continuing basis.

Those who advocate legalizing drugs, and I are not talking about marijuana, had better come up with a damn good plan that starts at the point of cultivation and goes right up to the nostrils of the end user.

But in the end, it is just all about money – the hundreds of billions of dollars in cash floating around now are very corrupting. Take a relatively high-ranking cop in Honduras: Is he going to pass up a suitcase full of money every month to help out the narco-terrorist, or take a bullet?

Legalization of hard drugs will not come about when the Zetas and the CIA have decided to cooperate with each other. The logistics of reining in that web of deception are way too overwhelming.

Jamie Douglas
San Rafael, Mendoza

I encourage you to write me at cruzansailor [at] gmail [dot] com with any questions or suggestions you may have. Disclaimer: I am not in any travel-related business. My advice is based on my own experiences and is free of charge (Donations welcome). It is always my pleasure to act as a beneficial counselor to those who are seekers of the next adventure.

You Know You’re Not in Kansas Anymore When...

article from December 13, 2011
by Julie R Butler

Everything is different in Latin America. It seems like this statement would be glaringly obvious, yet it is not so obvious to those who are picking a future retirement location out of the glossy magazines that are more about selling a dream than about culturally educating their readers. Building construction is different. The smells are different. People eat strange meals at odd hours of the day. Businesses close for several hours during the middle of the day. Life passes by according to an entirely different time schedule (or none at all). And people behave differently.

My theory is that the reasons for these differences are sunk deep in history, in the turbulent interaction of cultures that reaches back hundreds of years farther than the history of the United States does and involves epic conquests of a sophisticated matrix of civilizations that were not a part of the story in the northern reaches of the Americas. The result is that, throughout Latin America, there are several characteristics that many who come to live here are surprised to discover, often finding themselves annoyed and offended to have to deal with them. Here are a few:

The future

Time is not the essence of Latin America. It is regarded in a completely different way. When someone says that something will happen “mañana,” they do not necessarily mean “the day that follows today.” It is a multipurpose word, like “aloha” in Hawaiian. It may mean “tomorrow,” but it may also mean “morning,” and you have to specify “mañana por la mañana” if you want to say “tomorrow morning.” Most often, it means “not today, but sometime in the future.”

Likewise, “quince días,” which translates literally into “fifteen days,” may signify roughly two weeks from now, but usually it means sometime further into the future or “check back in a few weeks.”

A desire to please

It seems to be a matter of politeness to answer “sí” when presented with a yes or no question, regardless of what the answer really is. Example: “Does this road go through?” “Sí.” One hour later, you will enjoy waving at everyone for the second time as you make your way back from where the road ends at the edge of a major river – sans bridge. Asking “Is this the way to San Gerardo” is not the best method of finding your way to San Gerardo. Alternatively, asking for directions will get you directions to somewhere or other, but not necessarily to San Gerardo. Since you wanted directions, you will get directions.

If you ask if something can be done, again, the question is likely to be answered in the affirmative. And you can probably guess what “I’ll call you” usually entails. I believe it is all due to the strange custom that it is better to disappoint someone in the future than to do it face to face. The future is so uncertain, after all.

Personal space?

Ideas about “personal space” are different, as in there is no such concept in many places in Latin America. People will crowd you in lines and at the gym.

Another aspect of this is the way that you will find people gathered together or walking together at a leisurely pace blocking everything from the grocery store aisles to the roads, and whatever important appointment you are rushing to will just have to wait.

And then there is noise. One person’s noise is everyone’s noise. If it is a major holiday, there will be mortars and firecrackers. If it is a wedding or a birthday, there will be loud music and laughter. If you are in the countryside, it will be barking dogs and crowing roosters. If you are in the city, there will be car horns honking. You will either get used to it or you won’t.

Customer service?

I often read about how there is no such thing as customer service in Latin America, but I think this impression is not quite right. I believe that the issue is that ideas about courtesy are different.

As I mentioned before, people prefer to answer questions in the affirmative and tend to say that things are possible when they are not. Businesses owners who are out of stock of an item will tell you that they will be getting more in “quince días,” but knowing that the distribution system is not that reliable should tell you that it will either arrive sometime in the future or it won’t. You may think you have an item on hold, even having put a down payment on it, but if someone walks in with the cash on hand to purchase it, you will have to make other arrangements.

There is no “business as usual,” as people from the States and other more fast-paced and prompt countries are familiar with. But do not think that what these shopkeepers and businesspeople are doing is meant to be rude or spiteful. They are just different cultural habits.

The same goes for waiters at restaurants. Instead of constantly sweeping by to see if you would like yet another beer, the waiters in Latin America generally take a hands-off approach. I have come to suspect that they are specially trained in eye contact avoidance, as you often have to gesture wildly to get their attention. Most incomprehensible is the matter of the check. They are not interested in turning tables over. The system doesn’t work that way. Rather, diners are expected to linger and talk over a cup of coffee after the meal is finished. There is a time for everything, but mealtime is not the time for rushing. That activity is reserved for speeding from one stoplight to the next.

My humble advice

It is easy to get paranoid when you are learning to live your life in a foreign culture, when you think that everyone is out to take advantage of you. And there are, indeed, many who will charge the “gringo tax” or otherwise try to take advantage of those who don’t speak the language or appear to be able to afford it or seem to be out of their element – all because they can.

My advice: Always be respectful. Do your best to learn the language and use it at least when greeting people before politely excusing yourself for not speaking their language well.

Be observant of how the locals behave. Particularly if you are outside of a big city, don’t be shy about greeting whoever you meet, even just walking down the sidewalk, if that is what others tend to do. In the major cities, you will find people to be more guarded. Then again, you may find yourself in a café or restaurant where people are on more friendly terms with each other. Join in the spirit – you might end up engaged in a pleasant conversation with the people at the next table who are interested to know if you are enjoying your time in their country.

Above all, try not to take things personally. The disregard for time, the blowing you off, the noisy neighbors, the inattentive waiters, even the gringo tax and the attempts to take advantage of your naivety about the ways of their country... none of this is aimed at you personally. Some of these habits are cultural mindsets that you will just have to get used to, otherwise you will be perpetually bent out of shape. And in most cases, the tendency to try to take advantage is a trait that is extended to anyone whose vulnerabilities make for an opportunity. I guess it is kind of like asking for a discount on the price of something; if you don’t ask, you won’t get it.

Life is different on the other side of the rainbow. It certainly isn’t Kansas anymore.

[Photo of Rainbow at Iguazu Falls by Julie R Butler]

Julie R Butler is a writer, journalist, editor, and author of several books, including Nine Months in Uruguay and No Stranger To Strange Lands (click here for more info). She is a contributor to Speakout at Truthout.org, and her current blog is Connectively Speaking.
email: julierbutler [at] yahoo [dot] com, Twitter: @JulieRButler

Monday, January 20, 2014

China’s Importance As a Trading Partner For Latin America

article from October 3, 2011
By Jamie Douglas

October 1, 2011, Chinese National Day, was respectfully observed by Latin American nations that have become dependent on China’s resource-hungry economy gobbling up thousands of tons of their exported foodstuff, minerals and energy resources.

From Mexico to Argentina, high officials of the region’s governments visited the Chinese diplomatic envoys in their countries to pay respect to the nation that has made them less dependent on the whims and winds of their northern neighbor, the USA.

Colombia offered up a “Discover China” event, intending to showcase the benefits brought by the ever-increasing trade between these two nations. With the Colombia-USA Free-Trade Agreement still in limbo because the US Congress, with its incredible inability to come to a consensus about anything, has not yet held a vote on this bilateral agreement, Colombia is smart to cultivate other options. Many see Colombia’s vote in the Security Council against Palestinian statehood as the result of strong-arming by US threats to continue to delay the ratification of this treaty, which will bring at least a billion-dollar windfall of US exports. But the benefits to Colombia’s economy are yet to be assessed.

Cuba, having been the first nation to officially recognize China 51 years ago, celebrated their bilateral bonds with exuberant newspaper and television propaganda from the Cuban government.

Uruguayan President José Mujica stated that China’s explosive growth over the last few years has been a blessing for the region, with China having made substantial investments in the small Eastern Republic of Uruguay, and there are more projects on the horizon.

The Dominican Republic, meanwhile, has expressed its gratitude for China’s generous donation of various forms of aid for reconstruction efforts, after several recent hurricanes have put great strains on this Caribbean nation’s ability to take care of its poorest citizens. Chinese workers are on the ground helping with very important efforts such as rebuilding water and electrical grids as well as aiding with reestablishing the all-important tourism sector.

Argentina’s Luis Susman, a spokesperson for the Foreign Affairs Ministry, has stated that both nations have been engaged in important efforts to increase trade between them. Recently, China’s state-owned agribusiness company, Beidahuang, signed an agreement to purchase almost 800,000 acres of land in Rio Negro, a deal that was initially kept secret from the people of the province, as there were sure to have been some serious favors passed to the officials making possible this dirty deal, which includes water and port rights. Juan Accantino, Rio Negro’s deputy secretary for agriculture, has repeatedly touted the benefits of this arrangement: “It makes great economic sense. We can foresee global shortages of land, water and energy, and our province can offer all three.” And once again the good people of Argentina got screwed by their corrupt leadership leaving off the end of the sentence, “...to the Chinese.”

Chile and Peru are also very grateful for the Chinese having become major investors in their countries’ mining industries. The recent 23% drop in value of copper will have severe impacts on the economies of both nations, with Chile’s currency already having suffered the worst loss in value since the Lehman Brothers collapse. The Chilean peso fell 11% during September and will probably fall more, since copper makes up more than half the country’s exports.

The huge buildup of trade between Latin America and China is evidenced in the fact that, between 2007 and 2010, the figure went from US$100 billion to $183 billion, with 2011 expected to exceed $200 billion.

Jamie Douglas
San Rafael, Mendoza
Where that Fine Malbec Wine is staring to grow!

I encourage you to write me at cruzansailor [at] gmail [dot] com with any questions or suggestions you may have. Disclaimer: I am not in any travel-related business. My advice is based on my own experiences and is free of charge (Donations welcome). It is always my pleasure to act as a beneficial counselor to those who are seekers of the next adventure.

Those Long Lines

article from July 20, 2011
By Jamie Douglas

Being an expat taxes your patience. Whatever you have to do with officialdom usually involves patiently standing in line, sometimes for hours. For US citizens, this inevitably brings about unfavorable comparisons with life in the good old USA, where you can do virtually everything via Internet and telephone.

But when you are out of the country and you have to go to your embassy or consulate to take care of some task such as getting your passport renewed, you may notice that there is a separate entrance for US citizens, while the “riff-raff” commoners are standing in long lines – most of the time started hours before the limited opening times – that wrap around the block. Often, you will find a whole industry of vendors selling refreshments and local foods to the poor souls who have been waiting for months or sometimes years to get (or not to get) visas to go pick lettuce and apples in the United States while having to deal with the constant discrimination they face when confronted by authorities, such as those in Arizona, who assume anyone with a Spanish surname or a darker skin tone is a criminal alien.

Having spent many years in lesser-developed countries, I have come to accept the fact that there is no special line for yanquis at the post office or bank, and I marvel at the patience displayed by those suffering in the hot sun, cold rain or even pleasant weather conditions. Inevitably someone in line has a friend join them, and no one flips out. It’s just the way things are.

I recently had to go make a payment at the Argentine National Bank, the end of the line being about 50 meters from the windows serving the public. This was to pay for making an illegal left turn. Lesson learned: never make a left turn off the major boulevards in San Rafael. The fine was a mere 100 pesos, or about US$25. But the real punishment looked to be the wait at Banco Nacional. The whole experience actually took only about 45 minutes, and when I was done, I had made several new friends. The way people deal with this standing in long lines is to be very chatty with strangers.

Once word got around that I was from Switzerland, several of the victims of bureaucracy engaged me in conversation, satisfying their curiosity about my marvelous ancestral home country. And so the time passed relatively quickly and as I left the bank, I received a couple of pecks on the cheek, which is as Argentine as mate, the national drink of this and several of the nations in the region.

Now if only those in charge would realize how many otherwise productive man-hours are lost annually by virtually all of the country’s citizens having to spend many hours a year standing in these lines to do many things, from buying a stamp to getting their pensions and making the various payments for electricity, phone service and everything else that generates monthly bills. There are agencies where you can pay your basic bills, but the post office is a monopoly, as are the banks. To conduct business with them, it is necessary to partake in the time-honored tradition of standing in line. And believe me, it is a much better experience if you do it with a good attitude, and perhaps bring something to drink and read – or do like I do: blatantly abuse the good will of your fellow line-standing-victims by practicing your language skills on them.

Jamie Douglas
San Rafael, Mendoza
Where the Malbec Wine is Always Fine!

I encourage you to write me at cruzansailor [at] gmail [dot] com with any questions or suggestions you may have. Disclaimer: I am not in any travel-related business. My advice is based on my own experiences and is free of charge (Donations welcome). It is always my pleasure to act as a beneficial counselor to those who are seekers of the next adventure.

Corruption in Latin America: How Will It Affect You?

article from June 20, 2011
by Julie R Butler

Most people are probably aware that living in Latin America involves dealing with some level of corruption. But what does this mean, exactly? To what extent are countries corrupt, and how does this affect people’s daily lives?

The standard definition of corruption is “the abuse of entrusted power for personal gain.” From the responses to the disastrous 2010 earthquake to the recent headlines coming out of Buenos Aires about the Mothers of Plaza de Mayo, the issue of the corruption in aid efforts is particularly enraging. Not only does this affect the needy who are denied help and the donors who are betrayed, but it appears as the tip of the iceberg that is the larger problem that affects everybody, pointing to such problems as lack of oversight, nepotism and favoritism, and a culture of corruption that can mean a potentially dangerous erosion of the rule of law.

The good news is that, according to Transparency International, not all Latin American nations score poorly in their Corruption Perceptions Index (CPI). In fact, Chile and Uruguay are in the neighborhood with the UK, Belgium, the US, and France in the 2010 index. Among the better-ranking Latin American countries in the index are Costa Rica, Brazil, Cuba, and El Salvador, whereas Honduras, Haiti, Paraguay, and Venezuela rank lowest (in that order). The index is based on perceptions, which are likely to fluctuate wildly from year to year, depending on political climates – for example, Chile will probably fall in the 2011 index in parallel with President Piñera’s fall from grace, although the country will still rate highly among Latin American nations.

Of course, corruption varies greatly in nature and degree. It encompasses such issues as bribery, extortion, kickback schemes, and embezzlement, as well as transparency, accountability, and effectiveness. It ranges in scope from the local to the regional to the national and even the international levels of government and their dealings with private entities.

Its results also vary from the annoyance of wasted time and money spent greasing wheels to get things done in life, to victimization by crimes without having anywhere to turn to for justice.

The major expat communities of the world are somewhat removed from areas and situations that are physically dangerous, even in such notorious countries as Mexico and Colombia. But it is a given that living in most places in Latin America means taking your personal security into your own hands, because the police are either corrupt, incompetent, or both. Sensible safety precautions must be taken while traveling, there are known places to be avoided, and homes can be protected to some extent by having a few dogs or perhaps hired security. One may also be able to live in a gated community or a more secure neighborhood. Speaking at least some level of Spanish is also a kind of protective measure, because you may be able to talk your way out of sticky situations or stand up for yourself, when necessary.

Beyond the lack of a police presence that many see as a part of a freer life with “less government” regulating their lives, high-level political corruption is easy to brush aside as having little to do with everyday life. Yet it has everything to do with establishing a culture of corruption at all levels, and it affects the quality of life for everybody in society.

This kind of corruption can mean that the head of the country’s immigration makes it difficult for you to become legalized, while allowing criminals or slave laborers into the country in exchange for big payoffs, as was recently the case in Panama. Or corruption can be like that which exists in Venezuela, where the government is currently laying the blame for horrible mismanagement of the electrical system of the country on the users, applying a 200% “overuse” surcharge on electric bills that it deems to be too high. And the ongoing and always dramatic scandals that arise whenever someone is caught with their hand in the till of public funds only causes more cynicism toward governments that are elected on their promises of popular reform. Anyone who lives in Buenos Aires can attest to the difficulties caused by the constant clamor of street protests calling for social justice and government accountability in a city that is already plagued with major traffic problems, not to mention a constant shortage of small change and other banking issues that inject a measure of chaos to everyday life.

Government corruption is a concern that is not often discussed in terms of what to expect when living in a foreign country, like dealing with poverty. It is something that people learn to live with throughout the world, taking it in stride as a part of the culture or a social evil that can only be addressed with the patience of slow political progress. Everyone deals with their own situations differently, but the important thing is to be prepared to have to deal with being extorted by a traffic officer or some government official in a dank office who holds the power of his stamp over you. It is a paradox of living the “simple life” that things seem to be far more complicated than they should. Pero eso es la vida.

Julie R Butler is a writer, journalist, editor, and author of several books, including Nine Months in Uruguay and No Stranger To Strange Lands (click here for more info). She is a contributor to Speakout at Truthout.org, and her current blog is Connectively Speaking.
email: julierbutler [at] yahoo [dot] com, Twitter: @JulieRButler

The Shameful Existence of Slavery in the Americas

article from April 26, 2011
By Jamie Douglas

Yes, you read that right; slavery in the Americas, and that in 2011! “How can that be?” you hopefully ask yourself.

From Bolivian “contract workers” in Argentina, to miners in Chile, Colombia, Brazil and Peru, to migrant workers throughout the good old USA, modern-day slavery rears its ugly head. Even more shocking is its existence in the pineapple fields as well as the macadamia nut and coffee plantations of that dreamy tropical paradise, the Aloha State of Hawaii.

But let’s start at the far end of the American continent, in Argentina. This country is home to many labor-intensive industries that depend on a low-paid workforce. From the seasonal work in the huge farming and fruit industries, to the garment factories in Buenos Aires and several other large cities, the laborers are recruited by human traffickers in severely impoverished areas of La Paz, Santa Cruz and other cities and hamlets in neighboring countries, particularly Bolivia, with the promise of good paying jobs and better living conditions in Argentina.

Many of the recruits are extremely poor indigenous people who are trying to just survive in communities where there are no opportunities, making them very vulnerable. To an educated person, the fact that one is being supplied with forged documents for the border crossing, where corrupt officials on both sides are paid to look the other way, would be a clue that not all is as should be in this endeavor. But bear in mind that these people are uneducated, hungry and desperate. They are migrating with what little they have, often bringing along small children, abandoning their family ties and homes for what they hope will be a better future.

Unfortunately for them, the vultures who prey on them have other plans for their victims, and many end up in sweatshops where they are forced to work two shifts daily, seven days a week, supervised by genuine slave drivers for a pittance that is nowhere near the salary they were promised when they were recruited.

In a country that is so top heavy with bureaucracy such as Argentina, it seems impossible to me that these sweatshops are just hidden away in some magical invisible industrial park that the labor department is unaware of.

What is equally disturbing to me is that the government of Bolivia is not raising even its little finger to help its unfortunate children who are in these inhumane conditions, whether they are picking fruit, planting potatoes working in the hundreds of sweat shops or in the kitchens of restaurants in cities across Argentina.

Evo Morales, the current socialist president of Bolivia, was elected to a single five-year term in 2005, but as has become so popular amongst leftist Latin American leaders, a quick change in the constitution was enacted to allow him to be reelected for a second term. Evo, himself an undereducated coca plant farmer, rode into office on the promise of helping the poor out of their misery, considering that Bolivia’s mineral riches were producing billions of US dollars in revenue for foreign corporations. But much like Obama in the USA, he has come to learn the hard way that change is easy to promise, but very hard to accomplish when running into that tin, oil and gas wall of entrenched capitalism that has allowed multinationals to suck the wealth out of the country, barely paying any royalties into the treasury. The established Bolivian elite living in Santa Cruz, where all the natural gas is, actually threatened to secede when they felt that Evo’s planned nationalization of some of these industries was going to affect their obscene wealth.

Bolivia has an embassy in Buenos Aires that is well aware of the plight of the slave conditions of the hundreds of thousands of workers trapped between a sewing machine and a fire pit, but doing something about it through diplomatic channels would probably force the Argentine authorities to crack down on very profitable industries, causing a loss of millions in bribes paid by the producers to high-level officials to look the other way, or rather, to not look at all.

Another troubling fact is that if all the illegals were rounded up and sent back to their home countries, Bolivia as well as Peru, Paraguay and Ecuador would see a return of the poorest of the poor, who would become a burden on the social fabric of their home countries, so a stalemate has been reached, seemingly by mutual consensus, to let the guest workers fend for themselves. Never mind the inhumane conditions they are toiling in, or that there have been riots in Buenos Aires because there is no housing for them and no one wants them in their neighborhoods. After all, they went there of their own volition!

I am going to skip over the further details of the deplorable conditions of miners, factory workers and workers of the sex trade to not completely ruin your day, or evening, as the case may be, and go straight to Hawaii, where everyone lives on the beach and eats fruits off the trees and catches fish from the ocean by hand. Sound romantic? It’s not! There are thousands of homeless families who are living in parks and on public lands in the Aloha State, where former-Governor Linda Lingle, another one of these closet neo-liberals (like Governor Scott Walker of WI) who did not mention their true intentions while running, managed to completely dismantle what was already the worst educational system in the country. After all, she was only following in Ronald Reagan’s footsteps, but he at least destroyed the nation’s best educational system while Governor of California with the help of selfish short sighted Howard Jarvis and Paul Gann.

But in spite of having a record number of homeless, mostly native Hawaiians and natives of the Philippines, the boutique coffee, macadamia and pineapple growers have resorted to using genuine slave labor, imported from Thailand in this case. The minimum wage in Hawaii now is the same as on the mainland, $7.25 per hour, after always having been a little higher than in the contiguous 48 states; but again thanks to Linda Lingle, there is no difference in the minimum wage between Mississippi and the Aloha State, in spite of a much higher cost of living – by far the highest in the nation.

So it is easy to understand why companies such as Del Monte Fresh Produce, Kauai Coffee Co, Captain Cook Coffee Company, Macfarms of Hawaii, Kelena Farms, Maui Pineapple Farms and others would have to hire Mordechai Orian’s slave trader firm, Global Horizons Manpower Inc, of Beverly Hills, California (great name for a firm that trades in human misery!) to hire Thai nationals to come work in the USA, being imported like livestock under the ICE H2-A visa program, which allows foreign workers to go to the USA to do the dirty work that I am sure many of the homeless living on the beaches, on the minimal dole, in very unsanitary conditions, would gladly take on. A husband and wife together would make $14.50 per hour, which would bring in a decent $580 per week before taxes and qualify them for a substantial earned income tax credit.

But the above-mentioned economic criminals find it easier to cheat a few hundred Thais out of their earned wages in the old plantation tradition, having a few overseers in the fields that are charged with enforcing discipline and keeping the slaves from running away. Fortunately, some managed to contact the Thai government through the Thai Community Development Center in Los Angeles.

All the phones for Global Horizons Manpower have been disconnected and the companies connected with this shameful episode all refuse to comment or just simply do not return phone calls, messages or emails. The good news is that all of them have just finally been sued by the US Federal Government’s Equal Employment Opportunity Commission in the largest case of forced labor ever brought by that agency.

That is good news, but where were they when tens of thousands of migrant workers, mostly Mexican and Central American, were exploited by tomato farmers in Florida? And all those illegals working in California, Colorado and Texas, bringing food to the tables of good citizens throughout the US while barely having enough to eat, themselves, and living in substandard housing provided by their masters while charging them outrageous rent for those shacks, where many times 10 or more people live in crowded conditions. Unlike the Thai workers, their governments will not go to bat for them, because their remittances are supporting families back home who otherwise would be a burden on those societies.

for more information see:




Look at the label before you buy. Support fair labor standards around the world!
Jamie Douglas
Patagonia, Argentina

I encourage you to write me at cruzansailor [at] gmail [dot] com with any questions or suggestions you may have. Disclaimer: I am not in any travel-related business. My advice is based on my own experiences and is free of charge (Donations welcome). It is always my pleasure to act as a beneficial counselor to those who are seekers of the next adventure.

President Obama’s Upcoming (March 2011) Visit to Latin America

article from March 17, 2011
By Jamie Douglas

Promises Broken, Andean Trade Preference Act Ignored and Expired

A full two and a half years after President Obama promised President Luiz Inácio Lula da Silva that he would visit as soon as possible, the president of the United States has finally found time to visit Brazil, the worlds eight largest – and growing – economy. I feel it has a lot to do with Brazil´s former president having been replaced with the US-friendlier face of Dilma Rousseff, who promptly appointed Antonio Patriota, a former Brazilian ambassador to Washington, as her minister of external relations (comparable to the secretary of state). Brazil’s economy has grown to 2.2 trillion US dollars, an astonishing amount, when one considers the Brazil of yesteryear, where one military dictatorship followed another, there was one bankruptcy after another and the country was a permanent resident at the foreign-aid trough.

Brazil has now become nearly energy self sufficient, with huge reserves that far outweigh is future potential consumption. Brazilian industry has become a powerhouse in the Aerospace industry and is becoming a leader in renewable and sustainable energy, as well as in the automotive and heavy industrial sector, and is the US’s 20th largest trading partner.

Yet, Obama has continued the US policy of benign neglect with respect to Latin American nations. He will spend one day in Brasilia, the capital of Brazil, and one day in Rio de Janeiro, then fly off to a meeting with Chile’s billionaire President Sebastian Piñera, who, in the accustomed US style, bought his way into the presidency of his nation. (He seems to be doing an OK job.)

After that quick stop-and-chat, it is off to San Salvador, in El Salvador, a country that has been repeatedly plundered and devastated by US policies, just like its neighbors to the north, south and east.

Prominently missing from the US president’s itinerary are some other very important destinations, such as Argentina, where a US Air Force C-17 recently secretly landed at Buenos Aires Ezeiza Airport with heavy weaponry, ballistic armor and an assortment of psychotropic and combat-related medications – without the knowledge of President Christina Fernández de Kirchner, no less! Operation Condor all over? “It was for police training only,” was the official US response.

Also missing from that itinerary is Peru, a very mineral-rich country that could be even further exploited by US mining and oil companies, as well as Ecuador (probably too small and meaningless, since Chevron Texaco just lost a multibillion-dollar legal judgment there for poisoning thousands of hectares of indigenous Amazonian lands).

Colombia also will be over-flown, reminding me of George W. Bush’s sightseeing tour over the devastated city of New Orleans on Air Force One after Hurricane Katrina. I hope that Obama and whoever else is with him will at least have the decency to wave, maybe have the plane make a low pass over the region and wiggle its wings to acknowledge that they are there at least!

I guess that after letting the Andean Trade Preference Act expire without fanfare, it would be difficult for a US leader, who has shown such great promise to the region, to visit the nations that are most affected by the non-renewal of a pact that was an important source of revenue for Bolivia, Peru and Ecuador.

While visiting Brazil, Chile, and El Salvador, will the leader of the most powerful nation in the world address the gigantic social inequities that exist in those and all other countries of the hemisphere, where the richest 1 percent own virtually all the wealth of the nation? Sort of like the USA – oh, that’s right; he who lives in a glass house should not throw stones. What about he who lives in a house of cards consisting of trillions of dollars of US treasury bonds that are backed by hot air and former military might as well as the former respect and goodwill of the peaceful nations of the world?

President Barack Obama and Secretary of State Hilary Clinton missed another brilliant opportunity to mend fences with Argentina, the second most important country in South America, whose administration may just be reelected! Or is that why the US Air Force C-17 brought in those supplies?

This entire hemisphere could be like one big cohesive family, a family that, like all others, has its differences, which normally are settled at the dinner table, if it was not for the constant incompetent meddling of the USA and its lack of vision and knowledge of the region.

Jamie Douglas
Patagonia

I encourage you to write me at cruzansailor [at] gmail [dot] com with any questions or suggestions you may have. Disclaimer: I am not in any travel-related business. My advice is based on my own experiences and is free of charge (Donations welcome). It is always my pleasure to act as a beneficial counselor to those who are seekers of the next adventure.

Today is Fat Tuesday: A Whirlwind Tour of Latin American Carnival Celebrations

article from March 3, 2011
by Julie R Butler

Today, for Fat Tuesday, we will take a whirlwind tour of Carnival celebrations in Latin America, beginning in the Caribbean.

Trinidad and Tobago Carnival

Trinidad and Tobago Carnival is the most notable of the Caribbean festivals. The sounds are of calypso, the Afro-Caribbean music with melodious steel drumming, and its descendant, soca, which combines many newer sounds such as reggae, R&B, and DJ.

It is interesting to note that it was the outlawing of stick fighting and African percussion that brought about the melodic steel drum sounds that are such familiar icons of the Islands today. The Africans who were brought over by the French as slaves were also originally banned from participating in Carnival, so they created their own festival called Canboulay, which later became part of the distinctive celebration that has spread throughout the Caribbean.

The main events of the Trinidad and Tobago Carnival are the competitions to be named Calypso Monarch, Kind and Queen of the Bands, International Soca Monarch, Carnival Road March (which is the most played song in the parades), Panorama (for steel drum music), and other titles for stick fighting and limbo. Each band that competes has its own King and Queen, who wear enormous costumes that often require wheels and extensions to hold up. And, of course, there are dancers decorated with feathers and sequins.

In many traditions, there are also distinctive Carnival characters that have evolved through time. In Trinidad and Tobago, these include the rhyming speechmaker, Pierrot Grenade; the wandering black Minstrels in whiteface; the outrageous braggart, Midnight Robber, Jab Molassie, a devilish figure with an entourage of imps; and Dame Lorraine, a caricature of an 18th-century French aristocrat, usually played by a man.

Mexico

Moving on to Mexico, the biggest Carnival celebrations are held in Mazatlán, Mérida, and Veracruz, with colorful folkloric dance performances and parades that blend indigenous and European traditions. They are accompanied by fairs, complete with rides and games, and may also include bull riding and other rodeo competitions in the north, while in the south and along the coast, more indigenous elements are present. Regional foods are important parts of the celebrations.

Central America

Carnival in Panama is a big deal, featuring huge concerts with national and international artists in addition to the Carnival parades. The main events are held in Las Tablas, on the Azuero Penninsula in the southwest of the country, and in Panama City.

Elsewhere in Central America, Mazatenango, Suchitepéquez, in the Pacific coastal lowlands of Guatemala, is famous for its eight-day Carnival feast, which keeps alive many of the unique cultural traditions of the region.

Venezuela and Colombia

Venezuelan youths celebrate Carnival with a two-day water fight, along with other family festivities. Meanwhile, in Barranquilla, Colombia, the competitions are with flowers. The festivities there commence with the Battle of the Flowers Parade on Saturday, lead by the Carnival Queen, tossing flowers out to her subjects. The Grand Parade fills the streets on Sunday with such distinctively Colombian music and dance styles as the sultry cumbia dancing, the garabato, which celebrates the victory of life over death, and the torito folk dancing that portrays the bullfight. The four days of revelry come to an end when Joselito Carnaval dies and is symbolically buried. Because colonial authorities censored Carnival celebrations in the larger political centers such as Bogotá and Cartagena, the festivals grew, incorporating local indigenous traditions, in smaller towns such as Barranquilla and Pasto. The vivacity and variety of the many different customs is the focus of Colombian celebrations.

Ecuador

The Ecuadorians also partake in water play, as their rendition of Carnival is heavily influenced by pre-Columbian traditions that celebrated the harvest season with the throwing of flour, flowers, and perfumed water. To this day, the festival in Ambato is named Fiesta de las Flores y las Frutas. The festivals in Ecuador usually begin with the election of Father Carnival, who will lead the parade.

Bolivia

The Bolivians, too, celebrate with water play and distinctive regional music styles. The country’s biggest Carnival celebration occurs in the central Bolivian city of Oruro. This event begins by honoring La Vírgin de Socovon, the patron saint of miners, with a marching band competition. This is followed by three days and nights of parading, where groups perform intricately symbolic folkloric dance forms with names such as Caporales, Diablada, Pujlay, and Tinku. They represent an intriguing blend of Andean indigenous with Catholic traditions.

Peru

The Peruvian town of Cajamarca is known as this country’s Carnival Capital. Here, the festivities are centered around the unsha tree, which is adorned with ribbons, balloons, fruits, toys, and even bottles of booze (something for everyone!). After a period of dancing around it, couples take turns striking at the tree, and when it falls, the prizes are claimed.

Argentina

Finally, we come to Argentina, where Carnival is celebrated most flamboyantly in the north. In the northeastern province of Corrientes, the influence of Brazil is evident in the samba school costumes and parades. Uruguayan camdombe influences are also strong here. The capital city of Corrientes has a version of a Sambadrome called the Corsódromo, but neighborhood parties and parades carry forward the original peoples’ spirit of Carnival. The province of Corrientes is said to be “the cradle of Argentine Carnival.” From there, the traditions spread into the neighboring province of Entre Ríos, where the city of Gualeguaychú also has a Corsódromo. As in nearby Uruguay, the competition between comparsas, or performing groups, goes on for many weeks starting in late January or early February.

Meanwhile, Jujuy, in the northwest, has a very different kind of culture, and this is reflected in the nature of the Carnival festivities, which are more similar to those of Bolivia.

In Buenos Aires, the Murgas play a leading role and the Carnival celebrations mirror those that take place across the Río de la Plata in Montevideo – with more of a focus on the Tango, of course!

[Images via Wikipedia]

Julie R Butler is a writer, journalist, editor, and author of several books, including Nine Months in Uruguay and No Stranger To Strange Lands (click here for more info). She is a contributor to Speakout at Truthout.org, and her current blog is Connectively Speaking
email: julierbutler [at] yahoo [dot] com, Twitter: @JulieRButler

The Future Expat’s Dilemma

article from February 22, 2011
By Jamie Douglas

We receive inquiries on a regular basis from our readers that would make a list for solving a crime:

Where? When? How? Who? What?

Many of you have an idea of where you might want to end up, what country or what region. What you may not yet know about are very important issues such as the type of government, financial situations, taxes, immigration requirements, retirement income, cost of living and medical care availability and costs.

As I wrote in an earlier article dealing with renting vs. buying, renting is a good idea to start with. In other words, try it on first. For more information and advice that will help you to learn what you need to know, see the list of helpful resources at the Expat News and Info Helpful Expat Resources Page (updated January 2014) as well as the Expat Advice label listing for this blog.

Those of you who are young and adventurous will set out with different goals and ideas in mind. Some are seekers of the unknown with plans to eventually get back to your home countries and families, while others are looking for a place to spend the rest of your days on a little farm or ranch, maybe having family come visit once or twice a year or visiting them occasionally.

If you are wanting to leave your anglophile country because the government sucks, I can assure you that most governments suck. For the moment, Uruguay is exempt from that statement.

If you don’t speak the language and are looking for places where there are a lot of other anglophiles, think twice about leaving your country, because hanging out with the same small group of malcontents who are constantly bitching about where they came from does get old fast, and it is these same people who will soon crawl back to their nesting grounds, eating crow.

Then there is the concentration on “cheap.” There are really no cheap places anymore. Globalization is a fact. In some countries, you will pay as much – or more – for many things as you did at home. There are no megastores competing. Price-fixing is prevalent abroad. Energy costs are ridiculously high. In some countries, stores routinely run out of stuff.

And if you think that when you go to the local colorful market and buy produce from the “Indians,” it is healthier, think again. Many use mass quantities of pesticides, fungicides and fertilizers, as well as genetically modified seeds from the likes of Monsanto. Virtually no one from a government health agency ever visits farms or abattoirs to check on hygiene or the amount of chemicals used on their crops, or sanitary practices used to render their produce. Again, there are exemptions such as Uruguay, as well as a good part of Argentina and Chile. But do you want to live so far away from your grandchildren, to where you have to spend thousands of US dollars to go visit them? Will you miss your friends that you have spent 40 or more years cultivating? Are you ready to immerse yourself in a completely new culture, learn a new language while you are in the boomer age group and face the often quite daunting task of purchasing property in a foreign nation? ...at overinflated prices of course. There is no cheap land to be had anywhere in Latin America, unless it is really out of the way, like the Chaco in northern Argentina.

Added to the cost is political and social instability that can be in the form of crime, drug war violence, debilitating strikes, political corruption and incompetence, and long-simmering anger over social inequities that are beginning to come to a full boil as food and energy prices continue to soar.

So that brings us to the Future Expat’s Dilemma:

What to do, what to do?

Florida is very attractive at the moment, what with the complete implosion of real estate prices, and it’s cheap. There are Wal-Marts and Targets and Home Depots, 7-11s and corporate food joints on every corner. And bulk land is available sometimes at very good prices. Look for the “For Sale by Owner” signs. Many of them are trying to beat foreclosure and you might get a great deal. Then there is Las Vegas, with the total collapse of the housing market, as well as some regions in south Texas, Arizona, and California. All these offer you the conveniences of home, and you will still have plenty of opportunities to learn Spanish with your new neighbors. And nothing is stopping you from ignoring the government, like you would have to do as an expat anywhere in the world, anyway, as it is a bad practice to get involved in your host countries internal politics (Ask Che Guevara). Your friends and family are just a phone call away, and you can drive up to visit them for special occasions.

No worries about political instabilities because, despite the atmosphere, the USA is really nowhere near as explosive as are countries where real oppression and long-institutionalized poverty exist. Plus, all the countries south of the border are much more socialistically inclined than the USA will ever be (i.e. affordable health care), and forget about your cherished right to own assault weapons. In virtually every country, a foreigner caught with a firearm will spend a considerable amount of years in prison.

So, consider the options I mentioned above. They are real. If, however, you are truly looking for new horizons and challenges, there is a whole new world to be discovered south of the US border. There, you will find many fine people, incredible food, amazing culture, and adventures galore. So, as they used to say in the old National Airline commercials, “Fly me, I’m Gladys!” Oh, sorry no, that’s the wrong National Airlines slogan, it should be: “Come on down!”

Jamie Douglas
Patagonia

I encourage you to write me at cruzansailor [at] gmail [dot] com with any questions or suggestions you may have. Disclaimer: I am not in any travel-related business. My advice is based on my own experiences and is free of charge (Donations welcome). It is always my pleasure to act as a beneficial counselor to those who are seekers of the next adventure

Colombia Begins the Latin American Carnival Celebrations

article from February 14, 2011
by Julie R Butler

Carnival season has already begun in some parts of Latin America. The pageantry, the parades, the contests, the music and dance – this is what Carnival is all about. Yet the regional expressions of this annual celebration are richly diverse.

Among all of the different celebrations, those of the Andean southwestern region of the Colombia, centered around the city of Pasto, are the most complex. Here, there are not only a series of carnival events, but the pre-Carnival end-of-year festivities are also an important part of the celebrations.

Colombia’s Carnival season

In Colombia, the festival season begins December 7 with Día de las Velitas, Day of the Little Candles, when candles and paper lanterns are set out, and in the big cities, spectacular displays are lit and celebrations sparked. Christmas season includes the nine days of Novena and Christmas itself, but it doesn’t end there. Día de los Inocentes, or All Fools Day, on December 28, begins to set the satirical and mischievous tones of Carnival with trickery. Then for New Years, the people of Pasto parade dolls and puppets that they have made from old clothes and scraps, filling them with sawdust (the gunpowder that was once used is now forbidden), which represent the old year and usually express political and social satire. The puppets vie for prizes, then they are burned at midnight, thus unleashing the Spirit of the New.

Black and White Carnival

Pasto’s Carnival de Negros y Blancos is held January 2-7 and has been designated a Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO. It begins with a day that includes farmers making offerings of flowers and serenades to the Virgin of Mercy in exchange for her blessings, along with the Colonies Parade, where the area’s communities showcase their unique identities,. There’s also an alternative rock festival that encourages the melding of musical traditions and the emergence of new sounds.

The Children’s Carnival is held on the second day, and in recent years, a new parade has been added to celebrate indigenous cultures.

The following day commemorates the arrival to Pasto of a colorful group of characters – the Castañeda family – which involves yet more burlesque and making fun of society.

January 5 is Blacks’ Day, devoted to the motto ¡Que viven los Negros! It celebrates a day of freedom that was granted to the slaves of Colombia in response to a rebellion, and when everyone paints black cosmetics on their faces, all become one big family. The Carnival Queen makes her way through the city in a convoy on this day, inviting everyone to join in the playful festivities, and final preparations are made to the lavish floats that will come out on the streets for the following Whites’ Day Grand Parade.

On this parade day, people color themselves white with creams and talc, and the cry is ¡Que viven los Blancos! The parade is an abundance of many different kinds of music and dance, colorful costumes, performing groups known as Comparsas and Murgas, mini-floats, and mega-floats, with the Queen at the lead.

The final day is the Rural Culture and Cuy’s Festival, featuring regional rural fairs and the eating of cuy. This is a type of guinea pig that has traditionally been raised throughout the Andes as a food that is high in protein and low in fat and cholesterol.

Elsewhere in Latin America

Because the different Carnival celebrations are so varied, I have begun here and will continue this series with Argentina and Uruguay’s versions coming next, as they are currently in full swing, leading up to Brazil’s famous festivities, which, despite the tragic fire that just occurred in Samba City, will still be held March 4-8 of this year.

Other parts of Colombia share the more Caribbean-style Carnival festivities, which are what people in the US are familiar with because of the influence of the Haitians in New Orleans. These variations, having arisen due to different mixes of European, African, and indigenous influences, make the Carnival season in Latin America all the more intriguing.

[Image via Wikipedia]

Julie R Butler is a writer, journalist, editor, and author of several books, including Nine Months in Uruguay and No Stranger To Strange Lands (click here for more info). She is a contributor to Speakout at Truthout.org, and her current blog is Connectively Speaking.
email: julierbutler [at] yahoo [dot] com, Twitter: @JulieRButler

Día de los Inocentes

article from December 30, 2010
by Julie R Butler

Things don’t quite always work around here, and the electricity went out yesterday for some six hours or so. Why? ¿Quien sabe? My determination to work ahead, just in case of such a situation, had waned because of the lack of just such situations, so I got a bit stressed out about it. But I did take the opportunity to defrost the freezer, so that was good, and I spent some time talking with the neighbor who couldn’t get her work in her glass-making studio done, either. As it turns out, I would not have known that it was Día de los Santos Inocentes, Day of the Holy Innocents, yesterday, if the two of us hadn’t taken some time out to chit chat on the porch.

When Monica first told me it was Día de los Santos Inocentes, I heard docentes, and when she explained that it was the day when people play jokes on each other, I thought she was saying that she had made a joke about docentes being innocent. However, it has nothing to do with docentes, which is an adjective meaning “educational,” so I really did play the fool during that discombobulated conversation. I have looked the word up before and would know what it means if I heard it in context, if, indeed, it was the word actually being said.

An inocentada is a practical joke, but the “innocents” could be either the “fools” who fall for the pranks, or the pranksters, who are innocent of sin, so the victim cannot be mad at them – blessed fools, or from outside of Christianity, mythological tricksters, or  jesters speaking truth to power.

Día de los Santos Inocentes began as a Catholic religious holiday in commemoration of the massacre of the Holy Innocents, which are considered by the faithful to be the first martyrs for Christ. It´s all because Herod ordered all the male infants in Bethlehem to be executed after the Magi went and told him about this newborn King of the Jews, which he saw as a threat to his power.

Of course, I wouldn’t know anything about this history if my Internet were out today.

When the electricity goes out, we have no Internet, but even after the juice came back on yesterday, we still had no Internet for a few more hours. Oh, the horror! I was forced to do things like read a book (my reading of El amor en los tiempos de cólera is going painfully slowly), work in the garden (my feet got sunburned), bake some carrot cake (I didn’t realize that we were out of honey and even my back-up sugar until I had made a huge mess in the kitchen), and go into town to stroll through the feria in search of some local honey (I got overheated). But everything got back to working order by dinnertime, so a few “important” (or at least safe) things got done, after all.

Today, I found this humorous article addressing this very same issue: Have You Ever Noticed How Important Internet and cable Television Are To Expats? It’s dated December 29, and I suspect that when he writes, “Today is one of those days,” he means yesterday, when his cable went out where he is in Costa Rica for an entire day.

But wait, there is also this entertaining article in today’s edition of Insidecostarica.com:
April Fool's Day In Costa Rica Is In December which tells me that, yes, Virginia, there is a Día de los Santos Inocentes in Costa Rica, too.

Hmmm. Monica had told me that there are light pranks and heavy pranks. The light ones are like when her daughter alarmed us both for a moment by reporting that it was several hours later than it really was. So could the disappearance of the Internet in various places in Latin America be one of those heavy pranks, aimed at us expats, who just can’t live without our connections to the outside world?

Julie R Butler is a writer, journalist, editor, and author of several books, including Nine Months in Uruguay and No Stranger To Strange Lands (click here for more info). She is a contributor to Speakout at Truthout.org, and her current blog is Connectively Speaking
email: julierbutler [at] yahoo [dot] com, Twitter: @JulieRButler

Christmas in Latin America

article from December 23, 2010
by Julie R Butler

Christmas in Latin America, as you might expect, is celebrated differently by different people. But what you might not expect is the variety that exists throughout the region. The various traditional foods alone would take up an entire post, and a comprehensive essay would take me days to write, but this will give you the idea.

Mexico has its Virgin of Guadalupe, and their holiday season begins December 12 with the Feast of La Guadalupana.

In Venezuela, festivities on November 17 and 18 mark the end of the fair celebrating the Virgin of Chiquinquirá and the beginning of their Christmas holidays, which are filled with music and community events – and plenty of fireworks.

Colombian Christmas season begins December 7 with Día de las Velitas, the Day of the Candles, when towns and cities are lit up with candles and paper lanterns. This is the eve of Día de la Inmaculada Concepción de María, which is an official holiday in many other Latin American countries, as well. For the Colombians, the festive season begins on December 8 – with plenty of fireworks.

Venezuela and Colombia share traditions in common with Mexico’s famous Las Posadas, which are nightly processions, and related ceremonies that begin December 16 and lead up to Nochebuena, which is Christmas Eve in English and in Portuguese, Véspera de Natal. This night is actually more important than Christmas day, as Misa de Gallo, Rooster’s Mass, occurs at or around midnight, presents from Papá Noel, or more traditionally, El Niño Dios, may be opened, Mexican piñatas may appear, parties may continue until the roosters crow – and there are plenty of fireworks.

For many Mayans of Mexico and Guatemala, Nochebuena is more subdued, with the ceremonial laying of a figure of El Niño Dios in the manger of the family’s nativity scene. The ceremony might include a dance involving Abraham and Isaac, devils, and an ancient wind instrument called the tunkul.

El Niño Dios or El Niño Jesus is the traditional bringer of gifts in many parts of Latin America, and often, the children will have written letters asking for gifts. Alternatively, the Three Wise Men will bring gifts to the baby Jesus as well as to the children on January 6, El Día de los Reyes. In Mexico, special breads with small figurines of the infant Jesus baked into them are shared on this day, and whoever finds the figure is charged with certain obligations in El Niño Dios observances.

For some, this day, which may be known as Epiphany, marks the end of the holiday season, and leaving the Christmas decorations, such the relatively recently introduced Christmas tree, up past this date is considered to be bad luck.

The Mexican veneration of El Niño Dios, however, does not culminate until February 2, on Candelaria. On this day, the Christ figure is taken from the nativity scene and presented at mass to be blessed. The figures must be dressed in new outfits, which, in classic Mexican style, is in itself a complicated web of symbolism that results in outfits varying from the purity of whiteness to San Francisco brown to Aztec warriors, mariachis, soccer players, and much more.

[Image via Wikipedia]

Julie R Butler is a writer, journalist, editor, and author of several books, including Nine Months in Uruguay and No Stranger To Strange Lands (click here for more info). She is a contributor to Speakout at Truthout.org, and her current blog is Connectively Speaking
email: julierbutler [at] yahoo [dot] com, Twitter: @JulieRButler